Paper comes from tree fibers, either from the growing forests or recovered paper. Global deforestation and forest degradation are problems of a global scale.
Now growing jute plant is easy compared to get paper from tree fibre Jute is harvested any time between 120 days to 150 days when the flowers have been shed, early harvesting gives good healthy fibers.
INDIAN PAINTERS CAN PROMOTE A MESSAGE TO STOP DEFORESTATION THROUGH PAINTINGS ON JUTE PAPER.
WEST BENGAL GOVT SHOULD PROMOTE JUTE PAINTINGS THROUGH THESE PAINTERS BY ARRANGING PAINTING EXHIBITIONS .
THIS WILL GIVE A CLEAR MESSAGE TO SAVE TREES AND TO STOP POLLUTION IN CITIES AND TOWNS IN INDIA.
PAINTERS CAN PROMOTE THE FEATURES OF JUTE TO STOP DEFORESTATION
- Jute fiber is 100% bio-degradable and recyclable and thus environmentally friendly.
- Jute has low pesticide and fertilizer needs.
- It is a natural fiber with golden and silky shine and hence called The Golden Fiber.
- It is the cheapest vegetable fiber procured from the bast or skin of the plant’s stem.
- It is the second most important vegetable fiber after cotton, in terms of usage, global consumption, production, and availability.
- It has high tensile strength, low extensibility, and ensures better breathability of fabrics. Therefore, jute is very suitable in agricultural commodity bulk packaging.
- It helps to make best quality industrial yarn, fabric, net, and sacks. It is one of the most versatile natural fibers that has been used in raw materials for packaging, textiles, non-textile, construction, and agricultural sectors. Bulking of yarn results in a reduced breaking tenacity and an increased breaking extensibility when blended as a ternary blend.
- The best source of jute in the world is the Bengal Delta Plain in the Ganges Delta, most of which is occupied by Bangladesh.
- Advantages of jute include good insulating and antistatic properties, as well as having low thermal conductivity and a moderate moisture regain. Other advantages of jute include acoustic insulating properties and manufacture with no skin irritations.
- Jute has the ability to be blended with other fibers, both synthetic and natural, and accepts cellulosic dye classes such as natural, basic, vat, sulfur, reactive, andpigment dyes. As the demand for natural comfort fibers increases, the demand for jute and other natural fibers that can be blended with cotton will increase. To meet this demand, some manufactures in the natural fiber industry plan to modernize processing with the Rieter‘s Elitex system. The resulting jute/cotton yarns will produce fabrics with a reduced cost of wet processing treatments. Jute can also be blended with wool. By treating jute with caustic soda, crimp, softness, pliability, and appearance is improved, aiding in its ability to be spun with wool. Liquid ammonia has a similar effect on jute, as well as the added characteristic of improving flame resistance when treated with flameproofing agents.
USE OF JUTE PRODUCTS WILL SAVE ECOSYSTEM.Ecosystem services are vital. Wherever forests are found, they provide carbon sequestration, protection against floods, landslides and soil erosion, as well as harboring a rich bio-diversity of plants and animals.
THIS IS THE MESSAGE PAINTERS SHOULD GIVE TO SAVE OUR ECOSYSTEM.
THERE ARE SO MANY WEBSITES IN INDIA FOR PAINTERS .
THE AMAZON RAINFOREST is the largest rainforest in the world.
It extends for 3,000 mi (4,828 km) from the ANDES mountains to the ATLANTIC OCEAN.
INDIA NEEDS TO CONSERVE MORE FORESTS WITH THE USE OF JUTE PRODUCTS.
Plant Potatoes in Bags of Burlap Above Ground from Home Grown Fun
plants grown in jute bags
How to Grow Potatoes in Recyled Coffee Sacks
The Great Tater Experiment
Recycled Coffee Sacks
I scrounge coffee grounds from the local java joint and add them to my garden. It dawned on me that coffee sacks are bigger than my pant legs, stronger, biodegradable and don’t look as weird. To me, the word ‘biodegradable’ also means no commitment.
I got my hands on a few used sacks and found they had many benefits over other container methods. Old tires were out of the question for both aesthetic and environmental issues, and having another large plastic garbage can to look at in the backyard was also a no-go. The newer polypropylene grow bags are neat but they still look like garbage bags to me.
I learned a few things about growing potatoes from trial and error and one of the keys is to mound up the soil after the stems grow several inches. This produces more potatoes because taters sprout and sprawl from the stem of the plant, not the roots. So the best containers for potatoes are tall, hence the stacking tire method that many folks use.
Jute is Cool
A jute bag can be plunked down anywhere – on a balcony, patio or garden bed. It looks natural and doesn’t stick out like a sore thumb. The material is woven so drainage holes come standard. Air flow and rot prevention are built in. It’s great to reuse something that already looks earthy.
If your sack once held coffee beans and has any kind of logo or print on it, it might even look cool next to your patio seating or flanking a bench.
A coffee sack will stay together for at least a couple of seasons. The natural fibers eventually break down and many gardeners lay them flat on the ground after use for weed control or as a mulch.
To inspire others to grow their own potatoes I put together a kit for my farmers market booth. It had three kinds of organic, gourmet potato seed plus a recycled coffee sack and easy instructions. Below are the instructions so you can do this yourself if you already have access to the potatoes and a suitable container or garden bed.
3 Easy Steps for Growing Potatoes in a Sack Above Ground
You will need: A recycled sack, seed potatoes and garden soil.
On potatoes purchased at the store: I have used organic potatoes from the store that have not been sprayed with a growth hormone to prevent sprouting. Certified seed potatoes are disease and pest free, and will probably give you a bigger harvest.
When to Plant: You can plant your seeds in the fall if you don’t get hard frost in the winter. Many folks in Southern California start potatoes in November! If you live in USDA Zones 1-7, recommend waiting until early spring to plant. As with any seed, results will vary depending on growing conditions and level of care.
Storing your Seed Potatoes Until Planting: If you cannot plant right away, store your seed in a cool, dark spot where the potatoes won’t dry out or freeze. Ideally, you would plant 1-2 weeks after you receive the seed. Keep each potato individually and loosely wrapped. Ideal temperature range is 35 to 45 degrees F. A garage, basement or unheated closet works well.
About Chitting: If you want to encourage your potatoes to sprout before planting, you can “chit” them. You sit them with eyes up in a cool place with some light and wait. Don’t let them touch each other. An egg carton is a perfect chitting tool. I don’t chit and I’m not a closet chitter. I’m just lazy and plant the potatoes without going through any pre-sprouting rituals. If you are into chitting, let them eye-out 2- weeks before planting and plant sprouts up toward the sky.
Step 1: Prepare the Sack
Add soil: Roll the edges of your sack down over the outside of the bag to make a very short bag about 4-6 inches high. Tuck in the bottom corners of the bag (optional) to improve stability of the sack and to conserve soil. Fill your sack with approximately 4-5” of loose soil. Potatoes can grow in a variety of soils – rich, sandy – even straw. Heavy clay soil may not be the best choice. If you want to fertilize the soil, do it now.
STEP 2:Plant the Potatoes
Prepare the potatoes: If a seed potato is large (more than 2.5” long) and has more than one eye, you can cut the potato into 1-2 inch sections (keeping an eye on each section). You’ll plant only 3-4 pieces in the sack. If your potato is small (1-2 inches), don’t bother cutting it into sections.Plant any extra seed in another container!
Some folks insist on waiting a day after cutting so that the cut area gets a chance to callous over. This is supposed to prevent rot. I don’t wait – I just plant it but if you are concerned about rot you can delay planting for a day. Do not let the seed potato dry up.
Plant the potatoes: Place the potatoes on top of the soil, eyes/sprouts pointing up toward the sky. Again, plant the seed at least 6 inches apart.
STEP 3:Cover the Potatoes – Then Mound Up Later
Cover: Top your potato seed with 4”-6” of loose soil.
Mound up the soil: Once the leafy plants push through the soil (2-4 weeks) and the green tops grow more than about 8” tall, mound up the soil around the plant to promote growth of more potatoes under the mound. Leave some of the leafy vine above the soil (4-6″). Mounding Up is one of the secrets to getting a larger harvest!
Watering and Fertilizing: Keep moist at all times but don’t over-water (to prevent rot). Shelter the bag if you have excessive amounts of continuous rain. Don’t let your sack dry out. Soil amendments added when “mounding up” may increase your harvest and improve plant health. We use a combination of compost, worm castings and kelp brewed into a compost tea.
Harvest! After approximately 80-100 days, the plant will stop flowering and you’ll see signs that it’s starting to die (turns yellow or brown and withers). Wait 2 more weeks after the plant shows these signs and then try to harvest! Waiting allows the skin of the potato to set. Dump the sack over or carefully dig the potatoes up as you need them. YUM! If you harvest them all at the same time, store as you would other potatoes, in a cool, dark spot where they won’t dry out.